Alison Buchanan: Deep, almost opaque mahogany. The nose presents a compote of macerated dried fruits, prunes, figs, with some stone-fruit refreshment. Old-wine complexity and depth come through on the attack, proceeding through layers of dried fruit and cream, Eccles cakes, and some ginger spice. Unctuous, this just avoids being too cloying and has a wonderful resonance on the protracted finish. 15.5

Jesús Barquín: Intense chestnut brown, no longer bright mahogany. On the delicately intense nose it offers dates and other dried fruits. But on the palate it is a fiesta of caramelized oranges, accompanied by some light oxidative notes. Long and fresh. 15.5

Julian Jeffs: Opaque. Strange nose, perhaps not quite clean. Slightly volatile? Short. 10