Simon Field: Superb color. Very distinct, lazy rim, intense nose of Spanish Galleon, iodine, molasses, and (almost) seaweed. Palate is flamboyant, outrageously rich, ancient, and volatile (probably technically illegal). Impossible to know where or when or how to drink it, but that should be no impediment to its full appreciation. 18

Richard Mayson: Mid-deep mahogany. Pungent, high-toned, candied-peel aromas with a hint of cinnamon and allspice. Powerful tawny marmalade richness with the concentration and texture from age in cask. Very impressive, the richness balanced by lingering, steely acidity. 18

Margaret Rand: Smoked-nuts nose, bonfires and woodsmoke. Palate smoky and very pungent, both sweet and dry, and almost more dry than sweet. Classic Madeira character and lots of elegance; limpid, crystal-clear depths. 19.5