Tim Atkin: Big, dense, blocky purple; super-ripe, alcoholic, super-concentrated. Masses of oak, violets, plums, blackberries. Not subtle, a little Porty perhaps, but this is still a complex, concentrated wine. I’d drink it now rather than wait. 17

Gerard Basset: Deep inky-black color, with a vibrant purple rim; medium-deep nose. Slightly volatile but not unpleasant. Black fruit such as plum and black cherry. Rich and ripe, with really rich chocolate in retro. Long finish. 14

Anthony Rose: Big, hefty, Porty; browned rice-pudding nose—this smells slightly cooked and overalcoholic. Ditto on the palate, where chunky tannins collide with massive brandied alcohol in a wine that is simply too hefty and Porty for its own good—unless, of course, you like your reds to be Port. 15