Alison Buchanan: Very rich yellow–green gold in color. There’s an enticing rapier of steel on the nose giving focus to a combination of orchard and exotic fruit – passion fruit to the fore. This is beautifully weighted and textured with an alluring freshness and vitality – a lovely wine, very polished. 18.5

Alex Hunt: Floral, raspberry and petrol–like aromas; fairly complex if really quite developed. At first the acidity appears to have softened with age, but it asserts itself on the nice crisp finish. Quite individual, distinctive wine. 15

Andrew Jefford: Full lemon yellow. Pure and powdery now, like pounded chalk: does a little age accentuate terroir? Elegant, subtle and pleasing, provided you’re not after nettley leafiness. Vivid, elegant and fresh, with lively though now rounded acidity. Settled, calm and pure: a lovely mealtime bottle. All the green of youth now shading towards something rather yellower. The only price you pay is a loss of specific notes. 15.5