Alison Buchanan: Second bottle lovely nose, rich and ripe, honeyed and full. The palate is lovely, with some hints of undergrowth and warmth but with an impresive freshness. 15.5

Alex Hunt: Developed, but remains on the flinty side of the Sancerre style. Lively gooseberry fruit on the palate to counterbalance that flintiness. Concentrated and bright with acidity. 16

Andrew Jefford: Still pale. Complex and composed; subtle and intricate. Little in this wine shouts ‘Sancerre’; like wine 12 (2004 Domaine Fouassier Domaine Les Grands Groux) it is more Kimmeridgean. Strangely enough, returning to the glass later the wine had acquired more of the typical smoky aroma profile of the region. Dense, pure and refined: excellent. Beautiful, shapely acidity, backed by fine mineral depths; absolute poise and finesse. All the early overtness is now transcended and transformed towards something more archetypical: the vivid, mineral–dusted white. 17