Alison Buchanan: After wine No. 6 (2004 Roger Champault Clos du Roy), I feel I am now more on home turf. Pale green–gold in color, this offers a rather appealing blend of the floral, mineral and fresh orchard fruit character. The palate is soft, accessibly, nicely rounded with very attractive acidity and minerality to complement the fruit. Fruit is on the sweet side but is more apple and pear than tropical or gooseberried. Simple, pretty wine. 14

Alex Hunt: Clean, fresh, elderflower and citrus nose. Some creaminess on the palate, nicely matched by acidity. Not typical grassy Sancerre, perhaps, but stylish and delicate. 15

Andrew Jefford: Very pale; water–green. Nice nettley slash to the aromas of this wine; nose–rousing. Very cool and green; careful, reductive handling gives lots of precision and incision, but I don’t detect any great concentration here, and few risks have been taken to get the levels of ripeness that give even Sancerre a rounded finishing warmth in the mouth. 12