Nicolas Belfrage: Color code 9. Color very deep but nose not that complex. Another blockbuster of flavor and viscosity/concentration. This one has the thickness and concentration of others but not quite the complexity. A syrup more than a wine, it is something you could drink only in tiny quantities, wondering all the while how the juice of the grape could possibly arrive at this without major intervention. 18

Michael Edwards: Deep ruby to black intensity at the center of the bowl. Rich scents of violets and black fig- and date-like fruits. Sensuously fruity palate, as good with dessert or as a vino di contemplazione. Outstanding. 18

Jancis Robinson: Looks like Port only more viscous! Very deep blackish crimson, without much sign of age on the rim. Molten treacle toffee on the nose, with a bit of life and rancio. Masses of alcohol. Amazing amounts of sugar! But good acidity, too. A very demanding wine, but with life to it and a hint of rose petals. More lift than the other 1998 and real, almost shocking intensity. Syrupy, but with a bit of vital spark. It just doesn’t have that much follow-through. Very thick and sweet, with a certain iron-filings aspect to its texture. Great if all you seek is sugar. Drink 2008–23. 17.5

Franco Ziliani: Ruby dark color, with a tawny aspect. The nose is very rich and intense, ripe, with great warmth and length and surprising fresh-fruit notes. Very cherry on the palate, with great sweetness and persistence, but the wine shows only one—also interesting—dimension and a slight lack of complexity. Great intensity, great masses of dried fruit, very broad and savory, but... 16.5