A lovely, subtly translucent golden hue, flecked with green; a cordon of tiny bubbles, a snowy mousse. There are all the aromas of white flowers but also something richer and more exotic—Avize’s leading contribution, I’d guess, and very welcome in what is essentially a pretty cool vintage, where classic Chardonnay can show its paces, while this Amour de Deutz has the opulence of its major Avize neighbor in the interest of giving maximum pleasure to the largest number of hedonist enophiles. I love the scent of pineapple and apricot. In the mouth, the flavors are wonderfully pure and fresh—delights that as in all truly great Champagnes, it should never lose, just acquiring an extra patina of vinosity till 2030. All this achieved without a single stave of oak. Another boon is the wine’s versatility—as good as a supreme apéritif as a partner for beloved dishes based on the finest raw materials, without overdone elaborations. Faites simple—as in Dover or North Sea sole meunière, roasted turbot or sea bass, plateau de fruits de mer that includes fresh shucked oysters and clams. Lobster is a good luxurious alternative, especially the smaller ones that have a natural “sweetness” to entice the largest number of enophile hedonists. Another is Asian cuisine. In many guides, where split-second timing is vital— as in fast-cooked Cantonese-style cooking—a favorite is speedy-grilled shrimps/prawns with ginger. This is without doubt a great wine and nowadays, maybe, the leader of the non-oaked school of Champagne making. A real treat. | 97