Andrew Jefford | Deep black-red, but no longer opaque. Quite shyly aromatic: the Baron de Brane is more articulate at this stage. But that same combination of flowers, privet, and subdued yet graceful blackcurrant is evident. Complex and nuanced. Brisk, fresh, poised, elegant, pure, and long: one of those dancing, slender 2017s that will keep their charm for the best part of a decade—and that you’ll need to drink while they keep it. Once it’s gone, the bones will show. The second wine and the grand vin are close in style here. | 89

Michael Schuster | A discreetly plummy, persistent Merlot nose; a rich, medium-full wine, fresh to crisp in acidity, fine in tannin; crisply sweet in flavor, long and delicate, restrained, subtle, discreet—all the Margaux hallmarks, that is—and with fine, gentle length. Just now a touch dominated by its slightly dry tannin texture, but this will be absorbed. Great finesse and subtlety, a lovely expression of both vintage and of origin. Needs a bit of time. 2025–37+. | 92