Michel Bettane: Ripe nose, tender texture, good fruit, elegant tannin, not big but made to age. 16.5

Thierry Desseauve: Brilliant garnet; tobacco notes blended with little red-fruit notes, super, classic style: lean, fine, long. Great finish. 17

Michael Schuster: finely oak-cedary nose; elegantly balanced medium-full claret, fresh and finely tannic, with a ripe-fruited, subtly earthy flavor, a nice, defining freshness, and good light length. Stylish, elegant, lively, restrained, and likely to be both good value and very drinkable. 2018–30+. 16