Mannie Berk | A prized Blandy family wine, produced just before Phylloxera. We’ve long been curious if there’s a connection between this wine and the São Martinho wine sent in barrel on HMS Challenger during its famous expedition of 1872–1876. After its voyage, the Challenger Madeira was returned to the island where it was bottled. Presumably it was vintaged in about 1870 and was also a Blandy family wine.

Roy Hersh | Richard Mayson brought this to a tasting at my home after dinner the first time we met, early in May 2003. This bottle was also Richard’s, from the collection of the late Richard Blandy (his father-in-law), and showed every bit as brilliantly a decade later. Recorked three times after it was bottled in 1893 (in 1953, 1960, and again in the summer of 1996 when it was rebottled as well), from one of the last vintages before phylloxera ravaged the island’s vineyards. Just slightly darker than the 1879 Torre Bella, with a maple-orange optic and broad amber-green apple edge. Tantalizing accents of sandalwood, torrefacted notes, beef-broth, white peach, hints of VA, and a distinctive heady scent of sea breeze created an evocative elixir. The complexity intensified on the palate, propped up by concentrated savory flavors, dried dates and figs, honey, walnuts, and bracing acidity that bordered on razor sharp. Ultra-smooth from the first sip to the enduring ending, this was unquestionably the finest Verdelho in the first two flights. | 18.5