Essi Avellan: Deep orange color. Strong, evolved, secondary nose, with plenty of coffee and cream, dried fruit, and spice complexity. Rich palate, with lots of intensity and energy left. Beautiful, and drinking perfectly without any signs of tiring. In full bloom. 20

Simon Field: Impressive freshness on the nose for a wine now into its second decade; gamey, toasty vinous notes inform the palate, which is still playfully quite foursquare—all the more appealing given its age. 17.5

Tom Stevenson: Lovely toasty aromas; delightfully mellow, gently rich, yeast-complexed fruits. Who said rosé cannot age? Just goes to show how well a “middling” vintage can be when selection is strict. 18.5