Essi Avellan: Deep orange-hued onion-skin color. Smooth, evolving, beautifully toasty nose intertwined with peach and marmalade notes. Fresh and fleshy, with a succulent mouthfeel and long, clean, fruity palate. Stylish and interesting, but with little improvement potential. 17

Simon Field: From the lighter end of the color spectrum, the wine has fine mousse and a complex, multifaceted aromatic, the flavors similarly complex, with tobacco, rosehip, figs, and orchard fruit all in evidence. A mere decade old, the wine is tightly knit and quite secretive. The underlining power is both eloquent and discreetly persuasive. 18

Tom Stevenson: A very pale, extremely elegant peach/ salmon color. Gorgeous fruit. Delicious, but not just delicious—classy, too. Such finesse. 19