Essi Avellan: Medium-deep peachy-salmon color. Beautifully fine-tuned, toast-complexed nose. Refined palate, too, with a fluffy mousse. Crisp and vivacious. Pleasurable, easy to enjoy, but classy. 17.5

Simon Field: A persuasive mousse behind the elegant color; the nose marries peach stone and plum, and the palate celebrates the ceremony with a slightly sugary indulgence. A rather raw finish underlines the need for a little more time; more time on the lees may have been benefi cial, too. 15.5

Tom Stevenson: Lovely pale peach color; clean, fresh aromas, fine acids, but as yet undeveloped fruit. Needs some bottle age, but will it get it? 15