Essi Avellan: Deep salmon-cherry color. Creamy, berried nose, with light toastiness. Coarse mousse and medium-long, dry finish. Lacks charm, but fresh and clean. 14.5

Simon Field: A hint of russet to the color, then a reticent nose, stone-fruit and agrume in the background. The palate has nougat and hints of marshmallow; soft and approachable, a wine for celebration of middling to middling-plus achievements. 15.5

Tom Stevenson: Refreshing, nicely balanced orchard fruits, with a fine, tingly mousse of tiny bubbles. 17