Essi Avellan: Deep cherry-hued color. Unrefined, rustic, earthy nose, with milky characters. Fresh and lively; better on the palate but nothing special. 14.5

Simon Field: Large, slightly clumsy bubbles are echoed on both the nose and the palate; confected aromas cede to tuck-shop indulgence, beguiling at break time perhaps, but lacking the intellectual substance for prolonged inspection. 13.5

Tom Stevenson: Pale peach color, very fresh and fruity on both nose and palate. Not too simple, but not complex either, and perhaps 1–2 grams of residual sugar more than necessary, yet still brut. A very clever Champagne rosé that should appeal to many. 17