Essi Avellan: Medium-deep cherry salmon color. Soft, creamy-lactic nose, with smokiness. Fresh and smooth, balanced by a sweet but suitable dosage. 15

Simon Field: Strawberry coloring and then a nose that is slightly restrained by the infl uence of oak. The palate has slightly drying phenolics beyond the fruit-basket profile; needs a little more post-disgorgement aging. 14.5

Tom Stevenson: Plenty of fruit, but it’s all stewed and rather angular. Just does not have the class or finesse of Champagne, though I know there are no other wines in the tasting. There is not even some yeast-complexing to the fruit. It’s all a bit simple really. 14.5