Essi Avellan: Medium-deep salmon color. Fresh, pleasantly toasty, with gunpowdery notes. Smooth, silky but loose palate; medium length. 15.5

Simon Field: Attractive soft color, with a hint of copper, then a slightly reduced nose that eventually opens up a potpourri of fruit. The reduction is carried to the palate, which constrains what is surely quite elegant red fruit in a straitjacket of precocious indecision. 13.5

Tom Stevenson: Contrastingly strong and young (but somewhat angular) fruit for such a pale, salmon color. 14.5