Jesús Barquín: Deep mahogany with greenish hues, it performs in all respects as an extremely old wine, with tons of extract and definition; overwhelming. Others will surely find it excessive due to concentrated acidity, the palate evocation of cathedral carpentry, and the resolute no-prisoners attitude. Indeed, it is a wine that should not be drunk as much as sipped; that alone will suffice to soak you with its flavors. Colossal, a world-class wine. Give me this and a pallet of Fino and Champagne (and maybe a couple of bottles of 100+-year-old Madeira), and I shall not miss any other wine ever again. 20

Andrew Jefford: Mid- to deep walnut. Furiously and busily aromatic: a little volcano of aromas. But there is something a little funky and musty and overly animal in here, though it is matched by lots of cask and dried fruit, too. Impressive but a little daunting. Jeez… the palate (though this is hard to believe) goes stomping right past [Valdespino Coliseo Amontillado VORS 30 Years Old] in terms of essential concentration. This is so strong it hurts. It tastes like an emetic. Well, okay, a little nicer than that, but this has gone striding right over the line for wine and is fairly and squarely into the medicine category. Once again, I think it is a wonderful thing to make old essences like this available for public view and purchase, as a way of marveling at the changes that time can bring to wine, but you’d only want a thimbleful, and it honestly isn’t very delicious. Whereas something like this must be invaluable as a blending component, to give sobriety and dignity to frivolous younger wines. Anyway, there it is—look, sip, admire, learn… then find something younger to drink. 17.5

Richard Mayson: Deep amber, with an olive green rim; pungent and powerful on the nose, wonderful concentration, lifted, verging on high-toned; this really leaps out from the glass. Big and immensely powerful, with huge intensity that etches its way on to the finish; a “wow” of a wine that deserves treating with huge respect but would be better to drink in a blend than on its own. 18.5