Jesús Barquín: Light chestnut. Somewhat shy but clean nose, with notes of fresh herbs and a subtle caramel hint. The palate is intense and well structured, more expressive than the nose, fresh despite its concentration, and very long. Delicious. 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Mid-walnut in color, with red glints. Refined, complex, and harmonious aromas: raisin, walnut, toasted hazel, creamed peach. Just a little caskiness holds it back: How important it is to try to exclude that! A wine of dramatic intensity and purity on the palate: long, seamless, driving. Those same allusions echo through the length of that long flavor drive, with nuts and tobacco to the fore at the finish. A splendid incarnation of the Amontillado ideal. Its disarming smoothness almost works against it; there is so much here, yet the cable of flavor wires has been bound in silk. 17.5

Richard Mayson: Mid-amber, with an olive-green glint; lifted and aromatic, almost to the point of being high-toned on the nose, this sings from the glass; quite full initially on the palate, building in the mouth, but slightly dusty and coarse on the finish. 15.5