Jesús Barquín: Amber. Here we find a little more emphasis on the oxidative aging than in most. It retains enough finesse, though. The palate confirms this, with notes of orange peel, almonds, and a hint of incense. Long and elegantly structured. 17

Andrew Jefford: Deep gold, with orange glints. Mint, resin, and a touch of animal, almost a faint sweatiness; this is a complexing factor, though, and overall this is an attractive, well-composed aromatic profile, though neither particularly classical nor dramatic in its intensity. On the palate, the wine is long, firm, and well structured, with more flavor mass than many; the basmati rice/umami character is clearly apparent, even dominant on the aftertaste. The overall effect of this mass is that it seems less piercingly dry than the paler, more soprano wines in this tasting. Very much a rounded, satisfying, gently nutty, cold-weather apéritif Amontillado. There’s a slight question mark over its purity of flavor, but in other respects it’s on the edge of very good. 14.5

Richard Mayson: Pale to mid-amber; rich in style, quite pungent, with an odd touch of treacle in the background; quite full but bone-dry, savory, withatouch of casky rusticity here on the finish. 15.5