Essi Avellan: Medium-deep bright lemony color. Beautifully integrated toast, caramel, and white-fruit nose. Crisp, pure, bright-fruity, linear body, energetic fine mousse, and long, balanced length. Very classy. 18.5

Simon Field: Precocious nose of green apple and tobacco, coy in youth. The palate is less reticent, with Mirabelle plum and hints of brioche and a fine, gently phenolic finish. Plenty of potential here. 15.5

Tom Stevenson: Fresh, crystallized fruit, with biscuity notes beginning to build. Needs another 12 months at least to soften the mousse, which has small bubbles but needs to be silkier. 17