Essi Avellan: Deep lemon color. Clean, crisp, lemon-meringue nose, with a pretty, toasty undertone. Refined, classy nose. Less interesting on the palate, which stays one-dimensional and sharp. Very dry and zesty. 16

Simon Field: Verbena and nectarine behind a rather clumsy mousse; the palate is interesting, with pink grapefruit, a teasing malic subplot, and a twist of white pepper to add complexity and enigma. I am not sure quite how this will develop, but it does not lack for interest. 16

Tom Stevenson: Well-rounded Chardonnay fruit but still has a certain raciness and the freshness of the 2004 vintage. Some might think this will age, but I would err on the side of caution and suggest drinking within just 12–24 months, which should just soften the mousse but retain all the freshness. 16.5