Essi Avellan: Deep, peach-tinged yellow color. Mild, soft, red-fruit nose, with light toastiness and faint lactic character. Full, dry, creamy, with a foamy but soft mousse. Very dry, but the balance works. 16.5

Simon Field: Straw color and a nose of hawthorn and poached pear; the palate has impressive length, intimations of mid-palate austerity challenged by whispers of nectarine and summer fruit. 15.5

Tom Stevenson: Good age, bags of flavor, not austere, nice mousse, lively finish—works well. 16