Essi Avellan: Deep lemon-gold. Soft vanilla-and-pastry nose. Unrefined and hollow palate with lactic notes. 13.5

Simon Field: Apple blossom and acacia on the nose promise well. The palate does not disappoint, with definitive wood influence creeping in, but the notes of gentle honey, underscored by brioche and stony acidity, are all very attractive and of classical, Palladian construction. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: A tad of butterscotch on the nose, but totally absent on the palate, which really is quite tight and awaiting development. This needs two years at least, by which time there should be no butterscotch at all, and the palate will be open. 17.5