Stephen Brook: Medium straw. Very ripe peachy nose, with some botrytis to give some honeyed tones. Very sweet but has intensity, too, and sufficient acidity to balance the creamy, voluptuous texture. Sweet Viogniers don’t always work well, but this does, since it shows complexity and a seductive fruit quality and mouthfeel. Very good length. 18

Alex Hunt: Aromatically, an interesting hybrid of Viognier and botrytis, with that slightly feral, mossy rot attack scarring but not obliterating the apricot beauty of the variety. The palate is very sweet but correctly offsets the sugar with a savory/phenolic edge rather than dialing in unfeasibly high acidity. Excellent length is the reward for this intelligent winemaking. 15.5

Andrew Jefford: Full, bright gold. Quite green, herbaceous, hoppy scents, which weren’t really what I was expecting, since they evoke “cool-climate” triggers. Very sweet, with some herbal notes behind; plenty of glycerol; but strangely odd and simple, with something just hinting at ammonia behind. Not a hugely successful sweet wine, and I certainly can’t imagine that this is a (historical) style of sweet Condrieu. Again, this is a wine I would struggle to drink. Viognier is a stern challenge! 12