Stephen Brook: Lemony straw. Waxy-lime-and-tropical-fruit nose, heady and lush and also rather aromatically wild. Rich, full-bodied, quite forceful without being pungent. The acidity is fairly low, so the impact is on the attack rather than the mid-palate, but it’s a wine that makes a statement and has personality. It’s not particularly harmonious, elegant, or long, but it has weight and substance. 16.5

Alex Hunt: Here we have some gentle honeyed evolution alongside a touch of struck-match sulfide aroma. The palate, while still admirably fresh, feels too rigid for a Viognier. It maintains an almost artificial composure until the finish, which descends rapidly into cream and amaretto heaviness. If longevity is the goal here, relax—it doesn’t need to be! 13.5

Andrew Jefford: Full gold. Gentle vanilla and nougat scents. Another wine in which the relatively prominent acidity strikes a false note, and which lacks fatness, richness, and aromatic articulation. There’s no point in planting Viognier just to make “another white varietal”; you have to engage with its very distinctive line of beauty. That means aromatic enchantment, glycerous richness, low acidity. 11.5