Stephen Brook: Medium straw. Gently exotic nose, peach, apricot, and some tropical fruit and an appealing floral waft. Broad, quite soft and rounded: a plumper style than the other Rhônes, but with just enough acidity to keep it lively on the palate. It does lack some depth of flavor, but there is some spice and vigor. Quite long but not very exciting. 15

Alex Hunt: Quite evolved aromas, with an unexpected vegetal note. The palate begins suitably fat but rapidly tapers to a rather mean, sinewy texture that fails to capture either the lusciousness or the delicacy of Viognier at its best. 12

Andrew Jefford: Pale, clear gold. Elegant, lifted, a little shyer than some, but with beautiful contour and definition. Behind the soft peach blossom, there is an almondy richness. Very classy; very chiffon; very beguiling. On the palate, this seems in some ways the lightest and freshest of the Rhône flight (which may be site-related); lots of poised, fresh lemon and lemon-blossom fruit and some shy white flower behind. There is more acid presence than in many, but it is ripe and scent-saturated. Vinous and poised. It’s also the wine among the Rhône five that best succeeds in evoking a shy minerality. A Rhône Viognier for food and for fine dining. Lovely deft wine that shows Viognier doesn’t have to be baroque to be good. 17