Stephen Brook: Lemony straw. Sweet appley nose. Fresh, zesty attack, lively and bracing, and even shows some firm minerality—yet it doesn’t shout Viognier, despite a tropical edge to the fruit. Precise and poised, and certainly refreshing, but not sure what to make of this. It’s racy, but is Viognier supposed to be racy? However, on its own merits, this is a good wine with a spicy, moreish finish. 16

Alex Hunt: A rather cooked, dusty aroma here. There is Viognier character at its heart, but it’s a little submerged. The palate, by contrast, is almost aggressively fresh—not quite grassy, but with a certain hardness. Viognier’s apricots do underpin the whole, but that elusive aromatic-textural balance has not been struck. 13.5

Andrew Jefford: Full gold. A slightly odd aromatic profile: rather funky and rustic. Not evidently varietal. On the palate, this has a fullness and a development to it that the wines of the Ontario flight that preceded it did not have. Nonetheless, the floral exoticism (which is here) I find sits rather uneasily with the sense of cool-climate freshness that is evident in the wine. I wouldn’t guess it was Viognier. 13