Jesús Barquín: Intense fruit nose, with a hint of glue and herbs in the background. Well structured, with powerful but sweet tannins, a certain alcoholic warmth, and balancing acidity. 16.5

Alex Hunt: Pure, intense black fruit, still quite closed, and whiffs of alcohol on the nose. Dense and firm on the palate, cloaked in tannin, but with sufficient balance and finesse to resolve in the future. Pretty serious medium-term potential. 16

Andrew Jefford: Saturated, dense, opaque black-red. Aromatically shy at first, yet you sense there is a huge amount in there waiting for release: a wonderful, taut, tight-sewn and intricately designed weave of sticky cistus, perfumed sloe, and raked, stony earth. On the palate, this is grand, dense, deep, and admirably textured. The fruits are vivacious, almost sour, almost sweet, yet finally neither, more real, more true than either caricature. The wine has almost perfect harmony and composition; there is nothing brutal or exaggerated about it. There’s a wonderful inner warmth, yet the fruit-saturated acidity lifts it with all the discretion of a late-afternoon sea breeze. Great Douro red, and it just has to be one of the great wines of the world produced in 2009. Put this up against any Bordeaux you like, go on, please do. It’s different, but... mmmm! 19.5