Jesús Barquín: Slightly less deep cherry than average in the tasting. Lots of new oak on the nose, sarsaparilla, lemon zest. Drying palate with fresh fruit, ripe strawberry. 14.5

Alex Hunt: Considerably paler in color than others in the flight: ruby-red rather than purple-black, and with a light, white-pepper-and-raspberry aroma. The palate is acidic and brisk, a sort of rasping luncheon wine, if you can ignore the 14.5% alcohol. I admire this wine’s defiance of the regional norm— but it’s not a particularly well-balanced, complex, or satisfying wine. 14

Andrew Jefford: Relatively pale and clear in this company. Vaguely red-fruited, but I can’t pick out much else in this low-focus aroma. Soft, pastilley fruits. A nice wine at £8.99 [$14/€11], but I suspect it might cost more than that… I just can’t find the density, grandeur, and level of allusiveness you hope for in this tasting. 11