Andrew Jefford | Dark, saturated black-red, still opaque (just). Fresh, full of poised ripeness, elegantly classical: finely judged and very attractive. It’s not hugely forthcoming, but in this vintage that is perhaps as well: billowing aromas might require the whip. Currant and a little clove. Very fine fruits mark the core of the appeal. This is very well done, very true to the vintage and commune, very pure and aerial yet at the same time finely structured, deftly fruited, graceful, intense, disarming and long. Wonderfully juicy acidity here, not the bone-chilling acidity you’ll find elsewhere from cooler soils. A super 2017: bravo to all. A very fine, lyrically pure-fruited effort. | 92

Michael Schuster | Oxidized sample. | NS