Michael Schuster | Fresh, slightly smoky (the Mouton fumée) red-fruit nose; rich, medium-full wine with a lovely concentration, fresh in acidity, very fine in tannin, a clear, aristocratic presence, albeit restrained; deep, sweet and minerally, tight and compact, long, gently fleshy, and graceful to taste, but with the Cabernet aromatic complexity clear, and a textural grain here of a different order from the two fifth growths; rich, close-knit, gratifying wine, with great length of flavor, before a fine, mineral and spicy persistence. Not Mouton’s volume, of course, but the class is there. A beautiful, top- notch second wine. 2030–50+.