Simon Field | Bright, strident, podium-gold, then a persuasive nose, botrytic exoticism, orchard fruit and modest hints of exoticism. The palate is potent, the alcohol rather indulged, and it is almost burning on the finish, such is its fiery intent. | 88

Andrew Jefford | Deep, burnished gold. Rich, full, planty, earthy, and sappy as well as sweet, and such a different style of aroma to its Sauternes counterparts. They are all steamroller fruits and the pâtisserie counter, whereas this is the tropical hothouse and the palm-filled conservatory. And the orangery: There are oranges and citrus scents. And quite a lot of oak. Might it even still be in oak? (The word “specimen” was handwritten on the label.) As the nose, so the palate. If you love Loire Valley sweet wines and want to tiptoe into Sauternes without being too disoriented, this is the wine for you. Huge acidity (for this region in this vintage) does the structuring work that the decadent sugars and perfumes and lanolin leesy-oak carry out elsewhere. It’s full of the green tropical leaves and the rampant plant sap. Such sweetness as there is (much less than elsewhere, despite the wine’s overall thickness of texture) is, jeez, almost appley or quince-like. What can I say? This is just a very different order of being from its peers and thus hard to mark. But it’s a fine wine, too, and an essential waymark for its region, which merits its place in any tasting. | 92