Andrew Jefford | Bright green-gold with silver glints. Clean, fresh, and rinsed: lanolin and sweet linen among the apples and lemons. Lots of lift and aerial purity, but the lanolin/linen note has a creamy freshness of its own, a kind of Pessac-Léognan recollection that lends depth and grace to this fine Riesling. Rich, full, sumptuous, lashings of cream to nap the fruits: Gosh, this is good. Absolutely spotless and high-focus, yet very giving, too: a long, fine season turned into palate music by a genius grape variety. Fruits and cream are really the core of its appeal, and it’s a wine with enough depth and intricacy to give you half an hour or more in teasing out allusions. This really could be either Germany (fruit purity) or Alsace (wealth and cream); inspired viticulture and winemaking, anyway. | 95

Stephan Reinhardt | This is an intensely flavored, pretty, floral (elderflower), but also candy-like scented Riesling, with a pure mineral elegance on the background that reveals crushed-stone aromas. Round and juicy on the palate, this is a full-bodied, rich, and generous, quite creamy textured and finely tannic Riesling, withatight and intense yet still slightly clumsy finish. Still not ready to sing. 2025–45. | 93

Anthony Rose | Pale lemon in color, this shows a hint of citrus and banana in its aromatic profile, a faint prickle, and it’s opulently full-bodied, with an appealing intensity of palate-coating citrus fruitiness, sustained by an incisive blade of fresh acidity and light saltiness, rendering this seamlessly elegant Riesling appetizingly fresh and dry. | 94