Andrew Jefford | Pale gold with bright green-gold glints. Ample ripeness here, and this is the first wine that, under “blinder” conditions, I would have guessed as a southern hemisphere Riesling: a tropical fruit style with mango and pineapple and lime and vanilla tobacco. Thoroughly inviting, and maybe that’s what the vineyard gives. Absolutely as the nose outlines: lots of exotic warmth has teased out a near-tropical Riesling from improbable latitudes. Concentrated, ringing, and round, and huge fun to drink. Maybe someone in New Zealand would allow themselves to make a Riesling like this, but the fashion in Australia is for more austerity (though the aromatic lime reminds me of Hunter Valley Semillon). Probably Alsace, but if not, a freaky-crazy-what-the-hell- why-not-let’s-go-for-it German. | 91

Stephan Reinhardt | This Riesling shows one of the most aromatic or fruitiest bouquets so far, but it remains also pure and mineral, with flinty notes of crushed stones and a clear and slightly herbal fruit. In fact, it makes me think of a limestone-driven Zieregg from Tement in South Styria but with more fruit and oak expression. Round and silky on the palate, this is an intense, still very aromatic and juicy Riesling, with a pretty unique character, possibly also due to some oaky phenolics from a Stockinger barrel. 2026–40. | 93

Anthony Rose | Pale lemon in color, there’s quite an overt veneer of smoky oak and sweet tropical pineapple to this wine, but thanks to a full-bodied, concentrated citrus-fruit richness, the oak is well integrated in the taste, albeit leaving a residual trail of smokiness that combines well with the pineapple fruit to add a degree of complexity. An underpinning of tangy acidity brings an extra dimension to a distinctive, balanced style. | 94