Andrew Jefford | Clear, bright mid-gold with silver glints. Soft, doughy, fresh, and tender aromas of fruit (apple and peach) and flowers (honeysuckle) in a style both pretty yet subtle; there’s almost a truffle backdrop here. That’s exactly what you find on the palate, too: Riesling withatruffley richness while at the same time being quite light and crystalline. The fruits on the palate are more apple than peach, and there is pronounced though ripe acidity and plenty of the non-fruit thing we call stoniness. In our age of dry wines, this again could be from either side of the river, but if you want a guess, let’s go for Alsace. Terrific wine: great purity and restraint. | 93

Stephan Reinhardt | This intensely yellow-colored Riesling opens with a mellow, super-ripe, and irritating lactic bouquet, which reveals ripe stone-fruit aromas intertwined with citric and, later on, smoky notes, as well as burned milk notes. Pure, fresh, and vital yet in a strange way soulless on the palate. This is medium- to full-bodied, elegant, and balanced, but on the finish it is more of an astringent, dry Riesling that seems to be walking through a valley right now. There is salt and energy on the finish, though. 2026–45. | 88+

Anthony Rose | Pale gold in color, the aromas are a tad shy at this stage, although there is an underlying sweet red pepper-like note; there’s some quite attractively full-bodied stone-fruit ripeness of flavor and a tanginess of acidity for a balancing dry finish. | 89