Andrew Jefford | Bright mid-gold. This has a slightly heavier, less lifted and pristine nose than most of its peers, though there is plenty of interest there, too: sappy, honeyed, milky, mushroomy. Not quite exquisite but intriguing. Honestly, this is quite an oxidative style on the palate, so don’t come here looking for pungent freshness and piano-wire balance. On the other hand, if you are looking for a Riesling with weight, drive, length, almost an extractive force, and a flavor that really does communicate a spadeful of earth and stones, find it here. It has great purity, too. Perhaps it is better to say “unreductive” than “oxidative” since there is no flatness at all; it’s just that articulacy is secondary and in another register. Apples, plums, lemons in a sort of strange dream. Great, stony, long, difficult, sour, and rewarding wine. German, I would think, because of the acidity levels, and of course in the new style, though the new approach means that it could come from either side. | 92

Stephan Reinhardt | Very intense and aromatic on the rich yet still somewhat reductive nose that opens this concentrated, spicy, phenolic Riesling, which represents a warm vintage with super-ripe and concentrated fruits, rather than the cool and fine talents of the grape variety at this stage. However, this changes after 15 minutes, when the intensely yellow-colored yet somewhat dusty wine gains complexity and even purity, with a lively flintiness. On the palate, this is a pure, fresh, and salty yet intense and juicy Riesling, with a remarkable phenolic grip and tension. Probably fermented on the skins, this is a wine with character, yet I miss Riesling’s purity and finesse here. 2025–35. | 88

Anthony Rose | Pale gold in color, this is ripe in aroma with an apricot-like sweet fruitiness. There’s quite a strong refreshing spritz on the tongue, and while the aromas suggest sweetness, the stone-fruit flavors are drier than expected. Nicely balanced, though, with a supporting freshness that just about keeps the whole enterprise in balance, even if the acidity is not particularly marked. | 90