Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve | Unequal samples with a common point: a few red-pepper notes, some are pure and fine with soft tannins, while others are short and dilute. This calls for another tasting in six months. | 16

Michael Schuster | Dense blackcurrant-and-gravel nose; elegant, refined, linear wine, fresh in acidity, with a very polished tannin texture, a lovely balance; sweet-cored, pure, and vital, with very fine persistence. Classy without being large-scale. As with many of the best of this year, I am struck by the fresh sweetness at the heart of the wine. 2018–25. | 17