Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve | Admirable aromatic purity along with perfectly ripe grapes. Nose and palate—with notes of grape blossom, linden flower, and lemon—are fabulous: a big success and a triumph for grapes grown biodynamically. | 18

Michael Schuster | Very mineral to smell but withatouch of tropical fruit, too; a concentrated, vigorous, juicy white; ripe, aromatic, mineral-infused, long to taste, and with a fine length to finish, too, of both fruit and mineral aromas. A generous white in the context of the vintage, with a particularly flattering balance but where the relative opulence is contained by the acidity. Will be attractive early, but doubtless with a fine future, too. 2017–25. | 17