Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve | All about supple finesse for this savory, delicate growth that’s a bit more precise than Gloria or at least more immediate, a bit less sappy than in previous years. | 16.5

Michael Schuster | Fairly full, moderately but firmly tannic, with the year’s lively acidity; nice, moderate length to taste, aromatic, ripe, not of any great depth, but with good, minerally length. A slightly austere, linear style, but not hard. 2019–27. | 16