Stephen Brook | The nose is beautifully fragrant and stylish, with mocha, as well as red-fruit aromas. Plump and suave without being heavy, this nonetheless has a firm tannic backbone and ample grip. Indeed, it’s a touch extracted and muscular, which isn’t what the nose leads one to expect. But there’s vigor and energy here and a long, almost brawny finish. Good potential. | 92

Andrew Jefford | Dark black-red: looks serious and brooding. Ripe, succulent black fruits: a trayful of prunes, chocolate, and tar through the window. Gratifying, richly textured, open-pored, and less forbidding than many, with gloriously energetic, storied fruits. Flamboyant Brunello. Look for the years to bring the subtlety that it doesn’t quite display as yet, but the energy of the raw materials bodes well. | 91

Michael Palij | Shy on the nose, with some red and black fruit poking its head above the parapet. The palate is simple and devoid of ripe fruit, with a meager backbone and not much to distinguish it. The tannins are dominant, and the wine lacks focus and power. | 87