Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: The grand vin is this château’s most Cabernet Sauvignon ever, and the taste marks a milestone for the entire St-Estèphe region—prepare to be amazed. Supremely rich body; absolute respect for the aromatic potential of the vintage; and masterful tannin extraction that puts hedonism at the service of analytical rigor—the wine equivalent of having your cake and eating it. A truly sumptuous St-Estèphe, as is the Pagodes. The Médoc cuvée, Goulée, is possibly even more surprising: quite simply the greatest wine we’ve seen from this appellation in 30 years! If it sells at less than €15 (as estimated by Guillaume Prats), then the 2008 is the “bargain of the century.”

Michael Schuster: I very much liked Cos and Pagodes last year, and the 2008s are very highly regarded by many, but our sample of both wines seemed all frame and no picture, all sinew and no soul. I don’t feel I can comment sensibly on them at this stage. NS