Simon Field | Attractive plum color, mauve, with a gentle fade to Victorian brick; an immediately attractive nose of myrtle, strawberry, and crème de cassis; far riper and more apparently indulgent than the sinewy 1983s just tasted. Whether or not this translates onto the palate remains to be seen... The answer, in this instance, is that it does; this is a joyful, exuberant example, High Catholic after the presbyterian inclination of some predecessors, and this assuredly is more fitting for a wine that has been fortified by spirit. Seemingly youthful beyond its 35 years, this is singing beautifully; a neat, harmonious ballad, with impressive purity on the high notes and plenty of scope for the deeper voices. Approachable, for sure, but not lacking for gravitas and definition. | 93

Andrew Jefford | Dark, translucent black-red—not yet onto the oxblood stage. But nothing like the opacity of the deepest 1980s and ’82s, by contrast. Very attractively fruity, plummy, almost claretty aromas, in full force of articulacy right now: lively and beguiling, hard to resist. Maybe it’s not “grand” or “authoritative” but gosh it smells good! Appetizing—and that’s the first Port of which I’ve written this in two days. After 15 minutes in the glass, the aromas have become much more herbal, though the sweet classy fruits are still apparent beneath. In the mouth, the wine is bright, tangy, vividly sweet, quite attacking, almost aggressive; there isn’t quite enough flesh and body to carry the spirit and arrowhead of the wine’s sweetness. A little disappointing after the appetizing nature of the wine’s aromas. Nonetheless, it is deep, driving, and concentrated, and has energy and panache. I wouldn’t keep it for much longer, since I suspect it will only grow more linear. | 89

Richard Mayson | Mid-deep and quite youthful in hue; lovely, open, ripe-berry fruit aromas, violets, too, expressive; follows on beautifully on the palate, with well-defined fruit, still firm, fresh, and vigorous, with well-integrated ripe tannins and a finish that is whole and complete, if just a touch leathery, but showing poise and finesse as it tails off. | 94