Jesús Barquín: Light color, very spicy, caramel. The palate is sharp, looks simple in comparison because it is not wildly complex like others, but it is lovely focused and well delineated. Impressive for a wine over 50 years old. 16

Simon Field: Tawny core with amber rim; attractive honest sweet-fruit calling card; nose quite heady, almost brusque; palate more of the same; complicated; hard to love. 13.5

Jancis Robinson: Mid rusty color with an orange rim. Well melded and developed, slightly cheesy nose. Light and fresh but without much palate weight. Very lively and breezy. It has probably seen better days. Drink 1970–1990. 16