Stephen Brook | The nose is sumptuous and powerful, with ripe apricot and pear aromas. No lack of aromatic force here. The power is mirrored on the rich palate, which has breadth and weight. It’s a touch heavy but has sufficient energy and minerality for that to be supportable. Not the most elegant style of Wachau GV, but it’s majestic and imposing and built to last. Long, nutty finish. | 95

Andrew Jefford | Mid-white gold in color. Vanilla, hay, and white pepper meet orange and pineapple fruits: lots of sweet charm here. Very puppy-fat-like and almost reductive; ideally needs longer in bottle to up its nobility, but the style pitch is very classical. Rich, vivid, and deep on the palate, with great substance, weight, and drive; lots of white pepper, hazel, celery, agave, and whipped-cream flavors. At the same time, there is no deficiency of peachy acidity, which drips through the wine, too. So much going on in a big, extravagant, archly Danubian mouthful: lovely work. Not quite the subtlety of the very best, however. | 91

Stephan Reinhardt | Deep, intense, and pure on the nose opens this 2018 Veltliner, which shows flinty/herbal terroir aromas of crushed stones. Powerful yet pure on the palate, this is a complex and persistently salty Veltliner that can compete with [Weingut Bründlmayer Ried Langenloiser Spiegel Vincent Grüner Veltliner 1 ÖTW Kamptal]. | 95