Simon Field | A flamboyant cartoon gold, a willful caricature soon to be dispelled with a little aeration, a good deal of contemplation, and the stark reality of a gently elided perfection. The savory is coaxed from shards of bright acidity; malty notes, jambon cru, white pepper, and the indescribable allure of umami. The palate is more discreet than one initially realizes, unfailingly persistent, however, the cadenza willful and resourceful, the fruit revisited with much joy. | 90

Andrew Jefford | A fuller gold than many of its peers. Very savory aromas—indeed, a touch rustic, with some apparent reduction or perhaps bottle stink. (We’ll see how it evolves.) Tangy, fat, and full. The stinkiness does clear a little (but never fully) to leave a combination of buttered fudge and yeast extract. Within the style parameters, I guess, but somewhat charmless. There is only one bottle, so we don’t know if others are like this or if it is a single-bottle issue. On the palate, it is quite concentrated and forceful and unsubtle, lacking delicacy, shading and nuance. | 80

Roy Richards | Deep gold. Oxidative, more whisky than Sherry. Full-bodied, as one might expect, on the palate—rich, buttery even. Hazelnut. | 88