Neil Beckett | Grégory now uses only 450hl barrels for the white wines, and there has been no bâtonnage here since 2007—which clearly works very well. There is only one pièce of this all-Chardonnay cuvée, first offered by Jean-Claude Boisset in the 2017 vintage, but from 50-year-old vines—and how distinctive and worthwhile it is. Pale gold. An enchanting nose: delicately floral (linden) and gently spicy. Ample and round in the mouth, but also bright and fresh (less than 13% ABV), with great old-vine concentration and surface tension. A rare example of a Nuits-St- Georges blanc that offers real scintillation. | 91–92