Bruno Besa | Brilliant golden yellow. Broad, open, mature, super-complex layered yellow fruit, with hints of orange and lemon peel, fresh herbs, and wet river stones. Super-refined palate, with lively acidity, layered fruit, and a very long, mineral finish. Great white wine with a long life ahead—despite being already nearly 15 years old. | 95

Andrew Jefford | Full gold but no deeper than that, despite almost 15 years of aging. Nutty and refined in aroma, like an older Blanc de Blancs Champagne; quietly attractive, uninsistent, and haunting. Very mouthfilling on the palate; ample and evolved, rounded, neither structured nor sinewy, indeed there is still a fruited lushness there, though the fruits have modulated considerably into an autumnal haze. A marvelous and eye-opening wine, and the aging was amply worthwhile. Look out for lemon, grape, green plum, Cox’s Orange Pippin apples, all swum together very seamlessly. | 93

Michael Palij | This epitomizes what lengthy lees aging can contribute to greatness in white wine. Effortless concentration, genuine complexity, endless length—at 15 years old, this is just starting to strut its stuff. The nose shows candied peach, almond, sea salt, mineral, licorice, toffee, caramel, and hazelnut. The finish is endless. Precision allied to concentration. Wonderful stuff. | 93