Bruno Besa | Straw to golden. Open nose, with some sweet oak and intense citrus-fruit character. Rich, mature palate, with lemons, yellow stone fruits, and a long, citrus-peel finish. | 92

Andrew Jefford | Full pale gold. There are some oxidative complexities here but they work well with the developed, forthright, brightly focused citrussy fruits; there are some creamy secondary notes, too, and lots of nutty charm. Enticing, articulate, and complete. Full, lively, complex, faintly funky but not exaggeratedly so, with a mouthfilling, dappled, and complex palate, which has now acquired harmony but which still has ample gathered force for the years ahead. Commanding Timorasso, which summarizes the singular, almost enigmatic nature of the variety at the same time as being expressive, detailed, and long. Those hints of funk just hold it back a point below [the Vigneti Massa Derthona Sterpi Timorasso 2017], which has equal depth and allusiveness but with better purity. | 93

Michael Palij | Well, here we go! This is a tempting, beguiling, complex, monumental, towering white that may go on to be Italy’s greatest white grape, apart from the exceptional level of alcohol that dominates the finish. Everything is here but in spades, with lashings of fruit, nuts, floral hints, and generosity. The finish stretches to 45 seconds, and there is no let-up in sight. | 93